29
Dear & I Having a FANTASTIC Time Touring Beijing Hutongs in Chinese Rickshaw in China
Filed Under (Beijing, China, Travelling, World Souvenirs) by Janet on 29-05-2008
We’re visiting the Hutongs now - been looking forward to this even before we came to Beijing!
Hutongs are narrow streets or alleys very popular in China, but most common in Beijing. The main buildings in these Hutongs areas are Courtyard houses, enclosed by four walls, called Quadrangles (or “Siheyuan” in Chinese). In history, Siheyuan buildings were the basic system for the building of Housings, Palaces, Temples & Government Bodies. There’re 3 kinds of Siheyuan - small, medium & big Courtyard houses. For small & simple Siheyuan; the main gate is open to the South, the main rooms in the North facing South are for grandparents; the corner rooms are for grandchildren; the West rooms & East rooms are for sons & daughters; & the rooms by the main gate facing North are used as the living room or studio. For medium & big Courtyard houses, there’re 2, 3 or more yards with many rooms.
Seated inside the vehicle of our Chinese Sifu (driver) travelling in the famous Beijing well preserved Hutongs area - Shichahai, in the Dongcheng District, located in Northwest Beijing.
Covering a large area of about 147 hectares & surrounding places of historic interests & scenic beauty & the old-style Hutongs, Shichahai is a famous scenic area that includes 3 Lakes - “Qian Hai Lake” (meaning Front Sea Lake), “Hou Hai Lake” (meaning Back Sea Lake) & “Xi Hai Lake” (meaning Western Sea Lake).
Passing by the below Silver Ingot Bridge (or “Yinding Bridge” in Chinese), a narrow channel joing Qian Hai Lake & Hou Hai Lake, the Hub of Shichahai area & the surrounding Hutongs.
The Silver Ingot Bridge (Yinding Bridge) is so named cos in History, it looked like an upside down Silver Ingot. Though it went through some changes, its original shape is still very much intact. Dongyang from the Ming Dynasty, once called it the First Natural Beauty in Beijing City. Seeing the West Mountain here is known as one of the Eight Wonders of Old Beijing - “Yinding Guangshan” meaning “Enjoying the view of the West Hill while standing on the Yinding Bridge”. Today, people can take a boat across Yinding Bridge from Qianhai Lake to Houhai Lake, or vice versa. Now, many Bars & Restaurants surround the Bridge - the Hub of Shichahai Bar Area.
Hey there were 2 Brides on their wedding photo shoots by the Lakeside of Shichahai - what a pleasant surprise!
There’re boats & even bicycles for rental too!
We finally arrived at the area where we would be joining the Hutongs Tour - by Rickshaws!! We were very excited cos it’s been a very long time since Dear & I had riden on a Rickshaw!!
Row of Bicycle-pulled Rickshaws parked at the roadside with the riders seated on them all ready & waiting for customers like us!
Some photos of the Rickshaws with Dear & myself :
A Dustbin Tricycle parked by the roadside!
Dear & I were both ready to set off on our Hutongs Tour!! And guess what - we were seated in the Rickshaw with the license plate number “0207″ which happens to be Dear’s birthdate - February the 7th - how amazing!!
Our tour began here - the Beijing Shichahai Sports School which was just opposite where all the Rickshaws were parked! Established in 1958, the school is one of the main Centres for training young sports talents in Beijing. Some of the sports elites that graduated from here include World Champion of Table Tennis Wang Tao, Taekwondo Olympics Game Champion Luo Wei, the International Chess Queen Xie Jun & All-round Wushu & Movie TV Star Li Lianjie (Jet Li).
Our Rickshaw “Sifu” (in Chinese meaning “Master” - which drivers/riders in China are normally greeted) started introducing the Beijing Hutongs to Dear & I us, briefly actually.
Anyway, the word “Hutong” is Mongolian in origin, meaning a “Water Well”. In ancient time, the digging of new Well came the new communities. It was later referred to as Narrow streets or lanes formed by Quadrangles. The word “Hutong” with the meaning of Narrow lanes was formed during the Yuan Dynasty in the 13th Century when the Mongols, led by Genghis Khan, occupied Beijing, which was the Capital of the Jin Dynasty then.
In 1260, Kublai Khan, the Grandson of Genghis Khan, established the Yuan Dynasty, & chosed Beijing as his Capital. During the takeover by the Mongols, the old City was largely demolished, & Kublai Khan decided to rebuild the City. When the new City of the Yuan Dynasty was completed, it’s recorded that there were about 390 roads formed by rows of Quadrangles. With clear definitions, the roads were either called Streets, Lanes or Hutongs. A 36 metre wide road was called a “Big Street”, a 18 metre wide road was called “Small Street” & a 9 metre wide lane was called a “Hutong”.
Surrounding the Imperial Palace (Forbidden City) which stood in the Centre of the City of Beijing, Hutongs were established throughout the Yuan Dynasty (1206-1341), Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) & Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). There were over 900 Hutongs listed in the Qing Dynasty. The records increased to 1330 by year 1949. Most of the Hutongs we see today were built during the Ming & Qing Dynasties, with only a few Hutongs from the Yuan Dynasty being preserved.
Although the City of Beijing has changed over the last 500 years, the Hutongs remain much the same as during the Ming, Qing & Yuan Dynasties - the broadest being 4 metres wide, & the smallest, in the Eastern part of Dongfu Hutong, is a mere 70cm across just wide enough for a single person to traverse.
Like streets, Hutongs also have their names. Some have had only one name since their establishments while others have had a few names throughout their history. Many Hutongs are linked to the names of Food, or connected to the names of Places, Temples, Daily Necessities, Trades, Industries, Plants, names of People & Government bodies.
Examples of Hutongs’ names linked to the abover mentioned are as follows :
Baoguosi Hutong (named after Baoguo Temple), Caomao Hutong (Straw Hat), Inner Xizhimen Hutong (name of Place), Liushu Hutong (Willow Tree), Damuchang Hutong (Big Wood Factory), Songguniang Hutong (name of Person) & Jingcha Hutong (Police).
There’s the ”Hui Shi Tang” (meaning some kind of Hall) - said Sifu as he pointed the pretty old-looking building to us! I had no idea what Hall that is cos I was more attracted to the store selling original old-looking posters of Ma ZeDong etc next to it! Wished we could get off our Rickshaw right then to take a look at the interesting items on sales - the Chinese traditional shoes, lanterns etc!!
CHEERS Dear Dear as I took a self-portrait of both Dear & Me seated in the Rickshaw while Sifu rode on………..hehehe it was actually Dear & my very 1st time riding a Rickshaw together I think!! And it was really very comfortable - we were both very happy & excited!!
The Grey titled Wall of Hutongs Courtyard which is in the original raw color - simply beautiful!
Hey there’s another Drinks store selling the authentic Old Beijing Chinese Posters - so nice so nice if only I could go grab one to bring home!!
We’re now travelling on Shichahai street within the Hutongs neighbourhood & a very popular recreational place of the local Beijing people as well as tourists!
The history of Shichahai can be traced back to as far back as the Jin Dynasty (1115-1234). During the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), it was the terminal point of the Great Canal, which was the main reason for its prosperity. In the Ming Dyansty, when the channels were not as smooth as they used to be, Shichahai changed from a bustling hub to a leisure place where people could stroll around to admire the vast natural sceneries or enjoy the cool shades under the many Willow trees.
And in the last 200 years, many government offices, celebraties, monks & nuns chose to build mansions, temples & nunneries in Shichahai. All these make Shichahai a famous Historical & Architectural place of interest in modern Beijing today!
Another sales Boutique of the Hutongs neighbourhood - I like the traditional gates next to it!
There’re many Restaurants & Bars in Shichahai - many of them beautifully decorated too, with colorfullly painted roof beams & the pair of Male & Female Lions standing on guard at their entrances, as Symbols of Blessings & Protection!
And today, Shichahai is a famous nightlife spot for many in Beijing!
It was very interesting riding on the Street of Shichahai cos we could enjoy vews of the Shichahai Lake on our right side, & row of open Stores, Boutiques, Restaurants & Bars both modern yet authentic, towards our left!
And I had quick gimplses of the Soldier Toys on sales at the below store while Sifu rode on pretty quickly!! “So cute la they all look!!” telling Dear when I first saw them! And I’d love to have one of them too!!
There’re many Bars with outside couches with cushions looking so soft, cosy & comfy how I wished I could lie on them, & sit up to the whole day, just sipping glasses of cooling intriguing Cocktails while enjoying the beautiful tranquil Lake view from across me!!
If not for the authentic looking roofs & the Chinese decorations of the Restaurants & Bars, I would have believed that I was somewhere else in the Australian cities etc & not in China Beijing - I was feeling amazingly Cool!
Arriving at the Shichahai Lakeside where we were travelling past earlier on while in Sifu’s car before we came on this Rickshaw Hutongs Tour!
I was looking at the rows of many Boats parked at the Lakeshore line when I saw this below cute little puppy!! And his backview looks just like Wenni - one of the 3 beloved family dogs of Dear!! So much & so puffy hair - So So adorable!!
I really loved the Bars with so many different kinds of colorful rattaned & clothed sofas!
We just passed the Yinding Bridge now overlooking the vast Lake of Shichahai.
Another quick self-portrait snapshot of Dear & myself snuggled up cosily inside Sifu’s Rickshaw!
Wow, the Bars even come with my favourite PINK sofas, & purple ones too - so pretty!!
One more close-up of Dear & myself!!
Stopping now at the Shichahai Lakeside for more photos! This Lake is the only remaining system dating back to the Yuan Dynasty from the 13th Century. The Lake is a scenic area of 34 hectares surrounded by former Princes’ houses, well kept Chinese Hutongs Courtyards, & Residences of Celebraties.
“Quick Quick Dear turn around & look here let me take you with the Boat behind!!” to Dear I quickly shouted when I saw the Ducky Paddle Boat approaching behind him!
And I managed to take, not 1, not 2, but 3 photos of Dear with the crusing Ducky Boat!! Heehee!!
And now’s my turn to be taken, alone & with Dear of course - courtesy of our tour guide Wang Jing, who was riding on another Rickshaw infront of us.
Beautiful calm tranquil Lake with the Lakeside lanes filled with many shady cooling Willow trees - if only we could also take a paddle boat cruise on the Lake too!
Then there came a swam of small ducklings swimming in the Lake towards us - as if to welcome us to the Lake!! Wow they could even swim in such a huge Lake - how brave of them!! I was really excited upon seeing them!
Then, as happy as I could get, I turned my head around after watching the ducklings swim away - & this adorable cutie baby was seated right infront of me!! How much luckier could I get - I just love babies so much - their carefree innocent soft cuddly looks just kill me instantly!!
After “chatting” & playing with the chubby baby for a while, it was time for us to leave. And seeing Dear already seated comfortably in our Rickshaw, I quickly snapped some photos of him smiling so happily, with Sifu standing infront of him!
Just after we set off again in our Rickshaw, I saw this Stone Man Sculpture by the Lakeside - I wondered who he is.
We saw more Restaurants & Tea Houses along the way.
Below shows a big Hutong Courtyard Gate & Wall - “This is a Rich man’s house” said Sifu. Many weathy elites live in the Hutongs neighbourhood, & their Courtyard houses come with big front & back Courtyards, with high long walls & tall gates, & their fronts decorated with Stone sculptures such as the lions etc.
As for the ordinary people, their Hutongs Courtyards are very much smaller & simplier, with small gates & low houses, & lesser or no decoratives.
Look carefully at the above photo (my apology for its blurness) - there’re even Restaurant table settings for dinning by the Lakesde - how wonderful!!
Inwards along a more narrower lane in the Hutongs neighbourhood, our Sifu rode on steadily. And we could see renovations going on - what happened was that some of the Hutongs were being renovated by the local Government for protection & preservation purposes.
Many Hutong houses have been pulled down & replaced by modern buildings & many Beijing people have to leave these narrow lanes where their families have lived for generations, to reside in apartments with modern facilities. However, due to the Government Policy & people’s requests, some of the Beijing’s ancient Hutongs still survive & many have been listed as protected areas.
Below shows the house with red Chinese couplets with Chinese characters pasted on the red gates which are typical decorations of Beijing Hutongs.
The grey-walled ventilations of Hutongs as seen below.
Now, our Sifu had to stop his Rickshaw in this narrow lane to give way to the on coming Rickshaw & bicycle!
And there were more traffic coming from more & more Rickshaws!
And being very near to the Rickshaw riding right beside (& infront) of us, I took these photos of our Rickshaw Tour Company logos.
We saw some pretty run-down Hutongs houses like below!
“Hey Dear is our Sifu tired now already?” I asked Dear while seated comfortably in our Rickshaw as Sifu rode on a little slower now…..alamak I sure hope Dear & I were not too heavy for him!!
More wealthier Hutongs houses up infront of us, NOPE - Sifu was not tired at all but strong & steady as he kept up his speed!!
And in the midst of Sifu’s fast riding, I even managed to snap this above (though blur) photo of the pretty quilt hanging on the outside of the Hutong house!
And then Sifu had to slow down again to let this Chinese lady-driven car pass through the narrow corner of the narrow lane on which we were travelling on, as shown below on the bottom right.
That Chinese lady finally made it & we continued on our ride enjoying the surrounding Hutongs courtyards & houses.
Now, guess whose mother is living in the Wealthest elite Hutongs neighbourhood?!! We’re now approaching the person’s house now (shown below).
Could you guess?! Well, it’s the mother of Jet Li - Li Lianjie the famous Chinese Wushu Champion Movie & TV Star! Yes, Jet Li actually bought his mother a Hutongs Courtyard house right here in Beijing to live in - Sifu told us as he stopped his Rickshaw infront of the house gates.
See the beautiful colored painted Roof beams on his mother’s house & the pair of Stone scultpures infront of the red colored gates - these decorations are commonly seen in the wealthy Hutongs houses.
You could see the pair of Stone sculptures more clearly from the below photos - these are actually Drum-shaped bearing Stones called “Drum-shaped Stone Blocks” or “Bearing Stones” that usually come in round or square shapes, mostly in combined design of Drum & Door-guarding Lion. Besides acting as decorative ornaments, they’re also Symbols of blessings, auspiciousness & as protectors from evil spirits!
See the above photo of Jet Li’s mother’s house - there’re even aircons - of course!! What on earth was I thinking - in today’s world aircons are so common!! But it was interesting to see such modern facilities in such traditional old houses as the Hutongs today!!
Wondering how big is the house & the Courtyards, & whether there were bodyguards inside the house protecting Jet Li’s mother etc etc……I snapped the last photo of the house (below) as Sifu rode on…….
We’re now travelling through the poorer Hutongs neighbourhood where the Courtyards & houses were much lower & smaller, some pretty run-down too. Even their Shops & Restuarants were much duller & not as well kept!
We were soon back to the location of the Beijing Shichahai Sports School (as shown below) where we first started off our Hutongs Tour!
And very soon we were back at the area where all the other parked Rickshaws were from the beginning of our Tour.
Ahaha - me being someone who loves taking everything & anything with my camera - I took the above photo of the back cargo of the elderly Chinese “Sifu” riding infront of us!
We soon got off our Rickshaw after thanking our Sifu for such a wonderful trip! And Dear above was giving tips of a hundred yuan to Sifu - actually we’d wanted to give him more cos besides being a great rider & a pretty alright tour guide, Sifu has told us how he needs to cycle an hour from his house every morning to his workplace here, & then cycle back another one hour back to his house from here after work in the evenings, every day. However, our tour guide had specifically instructed us to give only a hundred, guess cos of not wanting us to “spoil market” for the many tourists in the Hutongs Pedicabs business of this area!
Just before we left to look for tour Sifu’s car, I saw & took a photo of this above pedicab that looks like the Thai Tut Tut!
Hey, see how simply the 2 men below were playing Chess!! Even just using some sort of big plank wood with drawn lines of the Chess board, & sitting & squating on the floor, these 2 men were really immersed in their Chess game & enjoying themselves, & they seemed to have been playing for quite a while then - Life could be that simple actually!
Then there was this interestingly looking Tricycle hooked up with wooden cabinets repairs Store selling cycle batteries & all sorts of cycle accessories!
We were soon gone from the area to board Sifu’s car, with lingering sweet memories of our Hutongs experience.
Seated inside the Rickshaw was best & being riden by somebody & travelling on Shichahai Street & visiting the Hutongs was truely a paradise cos we could enjoy both the natural beauty of the surrounding sceneries with the refreshing cool breeze under the many cool shady Willow trees, as well as watching the passing by locals going about in their daily lifes in the Hutongs neighbourhood!
I would do this again any other time!! And should I have another chance to visit this place again, I’ll make sure I’ll visit one of the Hutongs Courtyard house, see the inside layout & feel, & understand a little bit more of the way of living of the family staying inside it! And I must also take a boat cruise on the beautiful Shichahai Lake, plus sit on one of those colorful so so comfy cosy sofa in one the bars & enjoy the surrounding beauty, as well as people watch etc etc…….yea yea I’ll be dreaming on……….& you should too!
P/S : My Beijing Hutongs Souvenir Magnet which I got later at a Xinjiang Restaurant Souvenirs Store - one of my Favourites :















































































































