01
Arriving at Tulufan (Turpan) & Meeting Uygur People before Travelling past the Flaming Mountains to Visiting Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (Qian Fo Dong) in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region along the Silk Road of China - Day 7
Filed Under (China, Cuisines, Silk Road, Travelling, Tulufan, Turpan, Xinjiang) by Janet on 01-09-2009
Finally, it’s our last day travelling along the Silk Road of China in the Deluxe Oriental Express Train today!!
In total, we spent 4 nights & about 5 days travelling from Xi’an to Lanzhou, from Lanzhou to Jiayuguan, & Jiayugan to Dunhuang, & since last night - from Dunhuang to now our next new destination along the Silk Road of China - Xinjiang!
Travelling up & down from the Deluxe Oriental Express Train has not been an all easy task, especially for the elderly travellers, cos we’d to usually walk up & down staircases over Bridges at most Train Stations while carrying whatever hand luggages we’d with us……………..
And though our main big Travelling luggages are all kept in our individual Sleeping Cabins aboard the Train, we’d still to carry hand luggages with our changes of cloths plus necessities of one or up to 2 days with us down & up from the Train upon arrival & departure of each new destination!!
And for those days & nights that we were travelling on the Train, we’d not be able to bathe at all cos we’ve not got HOT water but only extremely freezing COLD water!! Imagine we’d to wash our hands with only freezing COLD water whenever we brushed our teeths or used the Train’s toilets, & even the Cold water is limited & sometime we’d none at all!!
Besides, sleeping aboard the Train could really not be “peaceful” cos the Train’s usually noisy throughout its run & I could still remember there was one really strange & errie night when I could hear the Train’s horn honking throughout the entire wee hours of the night, & I could feel the train going high up………..& down slopes………then up………& down again……………& again for a pretty long while……….making all sorts of sounds…………
And that was really creepy cos it felt as if we were travelling through some real horrible places - well, who knows may be some ghost towns or deserted areas through the desert mountains etc cos it felt really scary!!
All my 3 other bunkmates including my Brother-in-law Ah Hia felt the same throughout that night but none of us uttered a word about it except tried sleeping quietly on our own Cabin Beds………..guess we were all praying hard inside our hearts that we’d pass through that “whatever hell place” we were travelling through then, & that daylight shines upon all of us safely again as soon as possible…………….
Only bracing through that “scary” night half-asleep till the next morning did we talk to one another about it…………….but somehow we didn’t talk much about it cos guess we just wanted to forget about it & continued on our journey happily, cos afterall we’d still be travelling onboard the Train ahahahah!!
I still remember my eldest sister ever told me (when I was may be 10 years old!!) that she once watched a Horror Movie about a Train Journey being halted suddenly cos the Train Driver decided to stop the Train to help some stranger pleading for help (from off the Train), only to be dead with all the other passengers onboard the entire Train cos they were all killed by Vampires…………..
And though I’ve never watched that Movie, I could still imagine its horrible scenes based on my sisters’s movie-telling…………..
And just imagine may be not ghosts, but who knows our Train might be stopped too suddenly by Desert thiefs & we’d all be robbed & hurt!! Well, may be it’s just my wild imaginations huh, but guess all these things could always happen in the actual world…………& guess we must all be really blessed to have travelled safely across the deserted places & deserts of the Silk Road of China today!!
Thank god nothing like that “scarry weird night” ever happened again throughout our later travelling on the Train along the Silk Road of China & till now we’ve been all very safe & sound……..,,…
Still, I’d do nothing to exchange for any of the invaluable & most adventurous experiences I’ve had travelling aboard the Deluxe Oriental Express Train in this Silk Road of China Tour of mine throughout these 5 days 4 nights, cos to me that was truely a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity & eye-opener for me, & I’m greatly grateful for everything!!
And though it’s not even half way through our Tour, many of my Tour mates have fallen ill or sick - some with legs aching problems, some down with flu & cough, & many with diarrhea (guess cos they ate too much local fruits!!), some with their throats stuck with fish bones & had to visit the local hospitals etc!! But thank goodness I’m doing very well & have been pysically good till today!!
Well, after Breakfast, we each receive the following Certificate from China Express Travel - hahah once again I’m a proud Graduate!!
Ahahah it was a really beautiful gesture by our Tour Agency to present us our above Certificates making us all feel a great sense of travelling achievements & real happy happy hehhehe!!
YIPPIE YIPPIE!! Most of my Tour mates are rejoicing right now that we’ll be out of travelling on the Deluxe Oriental Express Train after this morning…………..but Oh Dear NOT me really cos I’m already missing the Train rides now as we journey on across the beautiful Gobi Desert here along the Silk Road of China just as I watch the gorgeous rising Sun…………….
Shortly afterwards…………….
Located in the Eastern Corner of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region (which is the largest Province of China & part of the Silk Road of China!) - Tulufan (or Turpan) is an Oasis City nestled in the Turpan Basin in the Eastern Shadow of Tian Shan Mountain.
Here’s a Map of Xinjiang in China :
“Xinjiang” meaning “New Dominion” was integrated into China around 1884, & officially became an Autonomous Region - founded by the Chinese Government in 1955. Previously known as the Chinese Turkestan, Eastern Turkestan, or Sinkiang - they were later renamed “Uygur” representing “Unity” or “Union“.
Comprising of one-sixth of China’s Total Territory, the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region covers an area of 635,800 square miles - bordered on the North by Russia & Kazakhstan, on the Northeast by Mongolia, on the East by the Chinese Provinces Gansu & Qinhai, on the West by Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan & Tajikistan, & on the South by Afghanistan, Pakistan, India & the Chinese Province of Xizang (or Tibet).
In 1754, the Qing Dynasty defeated the Chagatai Mongols who ruled the area of Xinjiang between the 10th & 18th Centuries - delaring Xinjiang a Province of China. After the fall of the Qing Dynasty in 1910, a Uygur republic of East Turkestan was briefly set up but this was crushed by the Chinese Communist forces in 1949, & led to the present state of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region under the People’s Republic of China.
The largest Minority population in the Province, with a dozen other Ethnic groups from Central Asia - the Uygur people have Turkish roots & are ethnically & culturally distinct from the Han Chinese.
These Uygur people were originally animists, & later adopted Buddhism & even Christianity by 631AD! But around 950AD, they began converting to Islam as a result of Arab influences. And by the 15th Century, the Uygur people had all been converted to Islam.
Since the 11th Century, the Uygur people have used the Arabic script, with the Chinese attempting to impose a Latin-based script. Begining in 1980, these Uygur people were permitted to use a modified Arabic script, which was further modified in 1987 & it’s remained widespread till today!
Though Xinjiang is technically an Autonomous Region governed by Leaders drawn from its own Uygur people, the Chinese Communist Party continues to keep a tight & centralized rein on its day-to-day life.
And the “Law of Regional Autonomy for Minority Nationalities” gives these Uygur people their rights of using their Native Language (which is of the Ural-Altaic Language), develop their own Culture, educate their children in their Native Language & practise their own Religion.
Compared to Chinese & East Asians, the Uygur people are relatively tall & have beautiful & handsome Caucasian features, with brown or black hair, hazel eyes, sharp noses & light fair skin! And the men are clean-shaven, with the older men with moustaches & beards.
The Uygur people are colorful people too cos the men usually wear bright embroidered Skullcaps (or Doppa), & women wear brightly colored Scarves & Dresses with motifs. Though they’re Muslims, most Uygur women do not wear Veils or dress as conservatively as their Middle Eastern Muslim counterparts.
Below shows Me in the middle posing with the group of handsome & beautiful Uygur Dancers dressed in lovely colorful traditional outfits, with the huge Banner greeting ”Welcome Singapore China Express Travel VIP Tour Group” behind us :
Shortly after settling down inside our local Tour Coach here at Tulufan (or Turpan) Train Station in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region…………….
Ahahah never imagine I’d one day own such a most beautiful Red Uygur Skullcap (or Doppa) - it’s really most interesting & I love it!!
Hahah yeah yeah I practically ran out of the Toilet & wanted to puke right away!!!
I hate to say this again, but the Toilet here outside Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (or “Qian Fo Dong” in Chinese) where we just visited was so HORRIBLE - the worst by far!!! (hahah think I’d said the same in my earlier Post too huh ahha!!)
Well, it was not even a proper Toilet at all cos there were only just Holes on the cement floor (& without doors too!!), & through these holes you see those “everything” that you could imagine a real worst Toilet could have - lying right at the sandy ground bottoms!!
Even its Toilet walls has got its “almost everything” as though it was ”splashed“ - it was really so disgusting I just don understand why it was in such horrific states & shapes!! Was it a normal Chinese Toilet vandalism or what?!?! Just couldn’t imagine a normal human being would ever do that!!
Anyway, back here outside that real yuckiest Toilet - here we’re looking at the Flaming Mountains (or “Huo Yan Shan” in Chinese as shown in the below 2nd pic infront of the resting Camel) just outside the entrance to the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (or Qian Fo Dong) :
And yes yes, there’re also Camel Riding available here at the sandy deserts of this lovely Flaming Mountains (or Huo Yan Shan) - making me miss my wonderful Camel Riding back at Mingsha Shan (or Echoing-Sand Mountain) in Dunhuang all over again hahah!!
The Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (or Qian Fo Dong) stand high on the Cliffs of West Mutou Valley under the Flaming Mountains at 45km East of Turpan, at North-East of the Taklamakan Desert, near the Pass by Gaochang - an Oasis City at the foot of the Flaming Mountains, & a busy Trading Centre which was the Stopping Point for the Ancient Merchants & Travellers transversing the Ancient Silk Road of China.
As Buddhism was the first Religion from abroad introduced to this area, Xinjiang witnessed the earliest development of Buddhist Cave Art in China. And Tulufan (or Turpan) became the Buddhist Centre of Gaochang on the famous Silk Road of China, with the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (or Qian Fo Dong dating from 5th to 9th Century) considered the Most Valuable among Buddhist Caves found in Turpan.
I’m now walking down to the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (or Qian Fo Dong)……………
More of the barren, eroded, Red sandstone hills of the Flaming Mountains behind Me………………
Well, there’re 77 Rock-cut Caves here at the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (or Qian Fo Dong), with 57 (out of 83 original Caves) which currently remain - & we’re now visiting them……………
Most of the Caves are of rectangular spaces with rounded Arch ceilings often divided into 4 Sections, & the entire Ceiling covered with hundreds of Buddha Murals. In more than 40 Caves the Murals cover an area of 1,200 square meters!!
Some ceilings are painted with a large Buddha surrounded by other figures of Indian, Persian, & European origins, & the quality of these Murals vary with some being artistically naive, while others are masterpieces of Religious Art!
We’ve now stepped out of the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (Qian Fo Dong) after some half hour or longer!
Now, these Caves are not as spectacular & well-preserved as the Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang where we visited yesterday, cos many of the Caves here had been destroyed under the Religious Clashes - Vandals dug out the eyes of many Portrait Human figures contained in the Murals, & many are without hands or faces. Later in the beginning of the 20th Century, foreign explorers also robbed the Caves of much of its treasures.
Besides, these Caves was the Royal Temple of Huihu State which was the predecessor of today’s Uygur region, thus the Murals of the ancient Huihu State depicting the King & Queen & people from all walks of life, with inscriptions writen in ancient Uygur, Chinese & other Languages, could be seen inside the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (Qian Fo Dong)!
Despite much destructions, the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (Qian Fo Dong) do give us some ideas of its past glory!!
Outside the Caves we see a local Uygur girl dressed in Red traditional dress…………..
But they do let me to snap pics of them without asking me for a cent heheh!!
I shall now let my following pics show you more of the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (Qian Fo Dong) exterior……………….
Here’s a close-up view of the Flaming Mountains (on the right) facing the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (Qian Fo Dong) on the majestic Mutou Valley………………..
Well, it’s now time to leave the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (Qian Fo Dong) seen here against the towering Flaming Mountains………………
Well, there weren’t many pretty nor interesting Souvenirs except plentiful shawls inside the above Souvenirs Shop here outside the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (Qian Fo Dong), & most of my Tour mates couldn’t stop shopping & buying them!!
However, I found them not too attractive but seeing so many Tour Mates buying, I couldn’t help but grab one HOT pink Shawl for myself too hahah!!
Ahaha we’re still waiting for a few more Tour mates to be back here from their Shawls shopping at the Souvenirs Shop before we could set off to visit more interesting places here at Tulufan (Turpan) - so stayed tuned!!












































































Hello
I was wondering if you could email me high quality versions of the 3 wall painting photos you took from inside the Bezeklik Caves. Also without the writing on it. I have made a video for You-tube you may like it.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntWOFW9eVM0
Dear Jandy,


I must apologise for this late reply as I’d been away for long & kinda busy
Well, I’ve seen your You-Tube video on the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves, & I must say it’s most impressive & I love your music!!
Thank u so much for your interest in my pics - & YES, of course you could have the 3 wall painting pics (in high quality versions & without any writings) of my Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves travels - in fact I’m greatly honored
And I’ve since taken the liberty to send you my 3 pics to your email address which I found on your website - hope you find them useful for your Video